Textile Motifs

Some of the pieces Red Gingko has collected have imperfections. Many of the minority cultures believe that gods take offense with human perfection. So, it is not uncommon to see an anomaly in the design of a textile piece. Women also sometimes do not completely finish a textile piece. This is to signify that there is always more to do in their lifetime. Mothers sometimes leave a textile piece incomplete so that her daughter might finish it one day.

Miao Butterfly Creation Story

The butterfly is the most important motif in Miao culture. According to legend, the gods created the earth and planted many maple trees. A butterfly emerged from one of these maple trees and laid 12 eggs. One of the eggs produced Jian-ian, the procreator of the human race. Consequently, the Miao people consider the butterfly the creator of all living beings. Miao women embroider butterfly images on baby carriers and clothing because they believe that ‘Butterfly Mama’ brings good luck and good health to children, and grants Miao women the power of fertility.

 

Dragon Motif

Both minority and Chinese Han culture have long worshipped the dragon. Miao hill tribe people view the dragon as their friend. The dragon, a symbol of happiness and represents the people's hopes and dreams, was thought to live among the people. Consequently, the dragon image seen in art and crafts looks playful and friendly and often takes on every color of the rainbow. The depiction of the dragon is not static. The head or the tail is often replaced. The head of a Miao dragon may be replaced by the head of countless other animals such as an ox, chicken, silkworm, or even a human being, while the tail is most often replaced with that of a fish tail or centipedes' legs. The dragon motif originally had no bodies or wings making them snakelike and hence associated with rain and ultimately prosperity and good harvest.

In contrast, the dragon in Chinese Han culture is associated with knowledge and supernatural powers. The dragon was also linked to water and thus had life giving powers. By the Ming and Qing dynasty, the dragon evolved to symbolize the male gender and became the emperor’s insignia. The dragon was depicted as an awesome creature that inspired fear and respect.

The dragon is sometimes seen chasing after the ruyi pearl, a wish grant jewel, that symbolizes transcendent wisdom. The ruyi pearl takes many shapes; sometimes it is as simple as a circle and can be as complex as a floral emblem. Flames that signify the magical powers of the jewel often surround the pearl in Chinese Han textiles.

Phoenix Motif

The phoenix is a symbol of virtue, grace, peace and prosperity. It was thought to be a gentle creature that has the beak of a cock, the face of a swallow, the neck of a snake, the breast of a goose, the back of a tortoise, hindquarters of a stag and the tail of a fish. In Chinese Han culture, the phoenix eventually came to symbolize the Empress and is usually paired with a dragon (representing the Emperor). Images of the phoenix have appeared throughout China for well over 7000 years.

Dong 9 Sun Motif

The Dong ancestors, Yi-sian and Yi-mei had six children, Dragon, Snake, Tiger, Thunder, Jian-lian, and Jian-mei. After the parents died, Dragon, Snake, Tiger, and Thunder each ruled over a different aspect of the world, while Jian-lian and Jian-mei remained on the earth. The goddess of mercy, Sa-sui, bestowed rewards to Dragon and Thunder for ruling benevolently over the sea and sky. Snake and Tiger tried to kill Dragon and Thunder out of jealousy. However, their siblings Jian-lian and Jian-mei saved Dragon and Thunder. In an act of anger, Thunder brought about a flood that lasted 99 days that killed all living things on earth. Jian-lian and Jian-mei survived by using the gourd, given to them by Thunder, as boats. Sa-Sui goddess eventually created nine-suns to dry up the earth. The nine-suns represent the rebirth of life in Dong culture. Dong mothers embroider the nine-sun motif on baby carriers to protect their children and bless them with vitality.

Drum Motif

Bronze drums have a long history, some 2000 years, in Southwestern china. Drums were used in ritualistic ceremonies to call up the gods and spirits; during wartime, the rhythmic beating of the drums was meant to cheer up the warriors’ morale. Consequently, the drum as associated with power and prosperity.

Dong hill tribe communities in the eastern side of Guizhou Province, clans (relatives with the same surname) erect Drum Towers. The drum tower is a symbol of unity and good fortune for a clan. If there are several clans in the village, each one has its own drum tower. Traditionally, the drum tower is built without a single nail, with a square foundation and wooden pillars. It may extend up to ten stories high (approximately 20 meters high). The drum tower houses a large drum carved out of a singletree trunk with buffalo skin stretched over the wood base. In the past, only the village elder could sound the drum on important occasions such as for ceremonies, to discuss an important problem, or in the event of an emergency (fire, theft, war). In today’s society, young people hold song contests there and old men of the village gather around to tell stories, play cards, and smoke their long bamboo pipes.

In Taijing County, Guizhou Province, the Miao hill tribe people hold a drum praying festival once every 13 years, in order to remember their ancestor. The Miao hill tribe people believe that when a person dies, the soul leaves the body to take residence in a sweet-gum-made wooden drum. Beating at the wooden drum stirs their ancestor’s soul. So by beating the wooden drum, the Miao people believe they are paying respect to their ancestors.

Spiral batik design ('wotuo')

This spiral-design is known as the ‘wotuo’. The pattern is made by pressing four different sizes of bamboo rings on to the cloth. The yellow tones come from crushing wild gardenia pods into powder and mixing it with water. The complete design has eight circles made up of four on each sleeve.

There are several legends associated with this design. According to one such legend, there was a Miao girl who fell seriously ill. One day while washing on a hill slope, her mother came across a fresh patch of herbal moss. Her mother fed it to her daughter, who quickly recovered. As an expression of her gratitude, the girl developed a design to resemble of the shape of the moss. According to another explanation, the Miao had a tradition of killing an ox as sacrifice to their ancestors. The Miao women use the spiral patter on top of the ox’s head as a design to show reverence for their ancestors.

Peaches, Pomegranates, and Peonies

Peaches, pomegranates, and peonies appear in textile designs. Peaches symbolize long life because in the folk tradition they are the fruit of the immortals. They also represent marriage and springtime. Pomegranates have many seeds, and thus they are used to symbolize posterity and abundant offspring. Peonies represent spring, prosperity, love and affection and feminine beauty.

Dong Flowers of the banyan tree

Southern Guizhou and Northern Guangxi is famous for its evergreen banyan trees. To the Dong people, the banyan tree signifies proliferation and abundance. It is believed that the banyan tree grows into the moon when in full bloom, bringing light and luster to the moon. The flowers of the banyan tree is a common motif of the Dong people. The center circle represents the moon with various animals and flowers inside of it. Four banyan trees grow from the corners toward the ‘moon’ motif in the center.

Dong Sun with 8 rays

Dong worshipped the sun since ancient times because the sun brings light, heat, and life to the earth.

Dong Spider Motif

The spider in Dong culture represents wisdom and perseverance. According to legend, the king of Yue, GouJian, slept on a thorny bed and drank pig’s gall bladder everyday to punish himself after being defeated in war. One day he noticed how the spider would relentlessly weave its web after intruders and natural forces destroyed its hard work. He took inspiration from the spider. After years of perseverance and hard work, he eventually reclaimed his land and restored his monarchy. To this day, the spider motif is a common animal found on Dong textiles.

Miao Fish Motif

The fish, an important source of protein, signifies abundance and prosperity in Miao culture. The Miao believe that because fish lay hundreds of eggs at one time, they are a good representation of endless procreation. In addition, yu, the word for fish, is a homonym in Chinese for left over. A family that has leftovers after dinner is considered prosperous.
Miao people believe birds represent males and fish represent females. Thus, fish are often coupled with birds to symbolize the union of the male and female.